What a year. 12 months ago we’d just celebrated a modest Christmas in El Chaltén, Argentina under the cloud cover and hidden, towering peaks of Los Glaciares National Park. We rung in the New Year somewhere over the Atlantic Ocean en route from Argentina to Namibia. The coronavirus was just beginning to set off alarm bells in Wuhan, China but the rest of the world was as yet blissfully unaware. My biggest woe was the dismal Patagonia weather and it’s drain on my psyche followed closely by the blazing heat of Southern Africa and it’s power over our mere mortal bodies.
Today we are back in our home in Seattle, WA and as is often the case, the adventures of the last year seem but a blip in time. When I last wrote we had just arrived home to our backyard cottage prepared for a spring full of friends and baseball only to find ourselves in a rental in the Methow Valley, hiding away from the world.
This, was the unexpected gift of COVID. I thought often about writing a post about our time in this beloved Valley but in the end I decided it was just for me. I will share a few highlights here though as I just can’t help myself.
The Methow Valley is nestled in the foothills of the magical North Cascades mountains. Randy and I have been recreating in this part of our state since the early 90’s and it’s always been a favorite. It’s a quiet town where nightlife is defined by the starry skies above that give way to clear, crisp mornings and sun filled days. The smell of ponderosa pines fills the air. The Valley is quiet but filled with life. It’s difficult to describe what magic exists here. In all my years of coming here I sensed it. But it was not until I could wake up, day after day after day and breath the Valley into my being that I truly knew it. Because such a place is difficult to put into words, I look to Pacific Northwest Poet Laureate, William Stafford. He describes the Methow as beautifully as anyone.
Time for Serenity, Anyone?
I like to live in the sound of water,
in the feel of mountain air. A sharp
reminder hits me: this world still is alive;
it stretches out there shivering toward its own
creation, and I’m part of it. Even my breathing
enters into this elaborate give-and-take,
this bowing to sun and moon, day or night,
winter, summer, storm, still – this tranquil
chaos that seems to be going somewhere.
This wilderness with a great peacefulness in it.
This motionless turmoil, this everything dance.
Randy, the boys and I spent 3 months here. Somehow we managed to procure 4 “new” mountain bikes which afforded us the opportunity to ride the miles and miles of trails around the Valley almost every day. We hiked, rock climbed and wandered the wilds. While much of the world was locked down in city homes and apartments, we had the gift of the wilderness and the space to roam safely. I knew how privileged we were and I felt guilty about this most days. I remain eternally grateful for the opportunity to spend time in this place.
Methow Valley Balsamroot in bloom, new bikes! and our cute rental cabin with a view.
But all good things must come to and end and once summer arrived it was time to head back to the city to prepare for what we thought would be an extended amount of time walking the Washington Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). This 500 mile section of the trail that runs from the Mexican border to the Canadian border roughly following the crest of the Sierras and the Cascades, was Randy’s most anticipated aspect of our year long sabbatical. As it turned out, our family had needs that required flexibility and so flexible we became. We hiked as a foursome, Randy and Bodhi hiked as a duo, Randy hiked with a friend and completed many, many miles solo. The boys needed time at home and with friends. Summer afforded a somewhat safer environment to meet up outdoors and while COVID continued its relentless attack on all our lives, they were able to resume at least a little bit of a normal social life. Perhaps Randy will write a post about his fantastic adventures on the PCT. I am sad to have missed much of it but take heart in knowing he has scoped out the best of the best places in our incredible mountains and I shall return to them!
Trail food for 4 people for 2 weeks / Bodhi and Josh just north of Bridge of the Gods and the start of the WA PCT / Bodhi celebrates 15 on the trail! / Stacy seeing Randy off for his final push to the Canadian border.
After a summer of hiking and friends and with fall looming, our home rented through the end of November, our travel plans to Asia all but officially scrapped and the kids schools looking more certain to be fully remote, we were in a bit of a pickle. We hadn’t planned to spend months living in our lovely but a bittooweefor4people backyard cottage. Randy took a trail interlude so we could plan the final several months of our travels given that we couldn’t actually now uhhhh… travel. (That is to say that his wife – me – suggested strongly that he get his tush off the trail and come home so we could find our way out of said pickle. He kindly acquiesced.)
We managed a brief road trip to Sun Valley and the City of Rocks National Reserve, both in Idaho to mountain bike and rock climb. In keeping with our COVID times, we spent as much time as possible away from any other humans and out in the mountains. Fine by me truthfully. It was a really fabulous trip right up until the very last day – which just happened to be Randy and I’s wedding anniversary – when our beloved Bessie (our 86′ VW van) broke down on the side of the freeway just as we crossed the Washington border. The lovely people at the VW dealership in Kennewick, WA took great care of us. I just don’t necessarily recommend their waiting room as a place to spend 6 hours of your anniversary but… well… if COVID has taught us anything it’s flexibility.
Climbing, mountain biking, margaritas and coffee… Sun Valley, Galena Summit and City of Rocks, Idaho
Idaho was our last hurrah before the kids went “back to school”. Most days that looked like them sitting outside at the table while I worked inside with my clients. (Randy resumed his quest to reach the Canadian border on foot and completed that goal mid September!) I have a structural medicine private practice and work with individuals who have structural musculoskeletal/myofascial issues. They are typically in their undies during our sessions so they likely wouldn’t take kindly to two young teenagers sharing their space. (Remember, our house was rented so our little backyard cottage was home, office and now school too.) We anticipated this “kids do school outside” arrangement working for the start of the school year but knew once the weather turned lousy it wouldn’t be tenable. The day the kids spent doing schoolwork huddled under an awing with a heat lamp blazing while it poured rain was the day I knew we were done. I took leave from my practice once again and we headed south. Randy was bound and determined to make the most of his final months of sabbatical and since it just wasn’t going to work to have all of us living there, me working and the kids going to school we opted for another one month rental in the greater Palm Springs area. It wasn’t Nepal and Thailand (our original plan for the final hurrah) but it would have to do. And do it did.
Bodhi on lunch break from “school” in La Quinta, CA, Quick Yosemite pit stop en route to La Quinta to gawk in awe at the incredible El Capitan and Half Dome.
Rock Climbing Joshua Tree National Park and Tahquitz Rock in Idyllwild, CA
Surfing Encinitas, CA
Our month in Southern California was quite lovely. Sun, heat (105º for way too many days), biking, climbing, surfing, school, walks in the desert and family time. We explored Joshua Tree on several visits and were both saddened by the throngs of people seemingly there just to party outside and the genuine response to our concerns by an obviously passionate superintendent. We ventured to Idyllwild where the famed Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks – historical training grounds for Yosemite big wall climbers -provided us with Bodhi’s first multipitch rock climbing adventure. We spent a day at Big Bear Mountain using pedal power to get our butts and bikes up the trails for the pleasure of riding back down since the lift assisted mountain biking was closed due to COVID. The boys got a surfing lesson with the poster child of surfer dudes. Both kids confessed at the end of the lesson that they had no idea what the guy was saying half of the time. Surfers, like most sub cultures, have a language all their own… which is fine… cool even… except when you are teaching beginners. Then speaking in that language just makes you kind of a crappy instructor. In the end in spite of the sub par instruction, both boys caught some waves and the cooler weather at the coast was a nice respite from the heat of La Quinta.
Our time to leave La Quinta and head back to Seattle arrived and we jetted back up I5 to the Pacific Northwest and the end of our sabbatical. Endings are just new beginnings right?
Sometimes we cannot wait for an ending. Like perhaps uhhh… a certain recent presidency? Or a dentist appointment. 45 minutes twice a year is about 90 minutes more than I’d really like to spend at that particular office. But that clean, fresh feeling when you walk out? So good. (As long as you decline that awful minty, tar-like fluoride treatment they offer you.)
Endings can also be hard. Like just now… I paused my writing to fix myself some ice cream. And as I scrape and scrape for the tiny dregs at the bottom of my mug (and curse myself for not choosing a bowl that could be licked) I desperately want to run to the freezer and finish off the pint. I never want my serving of ice cream to end. Ever.
But traveling is different. Especially the extended type. There’s mixed feelings. You miss home. You’re tired of wearing the same old ratty clothes you packed in your backpack months ago. You’d give anything for your espresso machine. You feel like if you have to get on one more bus, plane or train you’re gonna lose it. Yet, you know this moment in time isn’t likely to repeat itself for a while, if ever, and it’s pretty amazing. You think about that moment the clouds parted and you were standing there looking… actually looking… at the Torres del Paine! Or the moment it dawned on you that you were in freaking Africa! And there was a real-live-in-the-flesh-wild-elephant in front of you!
It’s even more amazing in hindsight. The rough patches fade to a blurry memory while the highlights brighten and crisp in the mind. In many ways, this “year off” was a challenge for me. As I’ve grown older I’ve become a bit more fearful of the world. I worry more about what might happen to us in far flung places if something went wrong. I don’t much like this change in perspective but alas, it is what it is. It won’t keep me at home but it does make for a heavier first aid kit. 😉 As I sit here (still thinking about that ice cream left untouched in the freezer) trying to bring poetic closure to this year, I wonder what traveling will be like for me in the future. I might be morphing into a several weeks at a time instead of a several months at at time kind of traveling gal. More frequent, shorter trips. I like coming home. I like being home. It takes that touch down to what is known and comfortable to trigger that desire to launch again. I know this is likely to be the last time our little family of 4 can spend months traveling together. Our children are perched on the edge of their own independent lives.
If you’ve been following along, thank you. I hope that wherever you go, whether at home or on the road, that your adventures bring you joy, growth and a greater connection to the all the diversity of this beautiful earth.
And now… to unpack this!
In case you were trying to follow along and got lost…
Original Sabbatical Plan
- Late November – December 2019: Patagonia (Chile and Argentina)
- January 2020: Namibia
- February: Morocco
- Late Feb: Stop in Maine on the way home
- March – June 2020: Seattle for school, baseball and Stacy’s work / Randy some solo adventure
- July – Aug 2020: Family Pacific Crest Trail hiking
- Sept – October 2020: Nepal and Thailand
- November: Home
Actual Sabbatical
- Late Nov – December 2019: Patagonia (Chile and Argentina)
- January 2020: Namibia, Botswana, South Africa
- Early/mid Feb: Seychelles and Morocco
- Late Feb: stop in Maine on the way home
- March – June 2020: school and work for 2 weeks/ Randy Morocco and Spain then as COVID shut down the world we went to the Methow Valley for these 3 months.
- July and August 2020: PCT hiking, Seattle and Idaho (Sun Valley/City of Rocks)
- September: Seattle
- October: Southern California (La Quinta)
- November: Home